Hele on the Hāmākua Coast
Our take
Hele on the Hāmākua Coast is an invitation to explore the majestic beauty of Hawai‘i Island, a land that feels like uncharted territory. Known as the Big Island, it boasts an impressive size—nearly twice that of all other Hawaiian Islands combined. While I’ve traveled to Kailua-Kona on the west side, Waimea up north, and Hilo on the east, I’ve yet to fully immerse myself in the wonders that lie along the Hāmākua Coast. This stunning stretch is rich with lush landscapes, cascading waterfalls, and vibrant local culture, offering a unique glimpse into the island's heart. In recent outings, I’ve begun to uncover the hidden gems and authentic experiences that await, making the journey along this coastal paradise a thrilling adventure.
Hawai‘i Island, also known as the Big Island, offers a captivating sense of exploration that can be both thrilling and daunting. Its sheer size—nearly twice that of all the other Hawaiian Islands combined—makes it a treasure trove of experiences waiting to be uncovered. The recent reflections of a traveler who has journeyed to Kailua-Kona, Waimea, and Hilo yet felt the call of the unexplored areas of the island, particularly along the Hāmākua Coast, resonate deeply with anyone who has ever felt the thrill of venturing into the unknown. This coastline, with its lush landscapes and rich cultural tapestry, is a reminder that even familiar destinations can still hold secrets waiting to be discovered.
Diving deeper into the narrative of the Hāmākua Coast, we find a region steeped in natural beauty and cultural significance. The traveler’s journey serves as a metaphor for embracing the unexpected, a theme that aligns with the spirit of adventure that defines Hanalei Bay Country Club’s ethos. The vibrant community along the coast is not only a feast for the eyes but also offers a wealth of authentic experiences that embody the island's essence. This exploration is particularly relevant in light of local discussions around environmental concerns, such as those highlighted in articles like Blue Water Task Force Kauai: High levels bacteria across almost whole island. As visitors seek to indulge in the beauty of Hawai‘i Island, they must also remain mindful of the delicate balance of its ecosystems.
The journey along the Hāmākua Coast is more than just a scenic drive; it’s an invitation to engage with the land’s history and the stories it tells. Each stop along the way—from the majestic waterfalls to the local farmers' markets—offers a glimpse into the island’s rich heritage. This sense of community and connection is essential for travelers seeking an authentic experience. The island is alive with cultural narratives and culinary delights that reflect its diverse inhabitants. Such experiences are vital for fostering a deeper appreciation of the destination, allowing visitors to leave with a sense of connection rather than just a collection of memories. This resonates with the broader conversations happening around personal responsibility in travel, as seen in discussions about local laws and regulations, like those in First Time Getting Pulled Over in Hawaiʻi — Cited for Excessive Speeding + No License, Need Advice.
As we reflect on the journey along the Hāmākua Coast, it’s crucial to recognize that it symbolizes the spirit of adventure that defines our connection to travel. The allure of exploring uncharted territories—whether in nature or culture—invites us to expand our horizons. For many, the thrill of discovering hidden gems can redefine their perception of a place, transforming it from a mere destination into a cherished memory. This perspective encourages us to embrace the unknown, to seek out experiences that inspire and enrich our lives.
Looking ahead, we must consider how our travels shape not only our personal narratives but also the communities we visit. As we venture into the diverse landscapes of Hawai‘i Island, what stories will we uncover, and how will we contribute to the rich tapestry of its culture? The journey along the Hāmākua Coast beckons not just for exploration, but for a deeper engagement with the land and its people—a reminder that every adventure holds the potential for meaningful connections and lasting memories.
The vastness of Hawai‘i Island has always felt like uncharted territory to me. It’s the Big Island, after all, nearly twice as large as all the other Hawaiian Islands combined.
I’ve traveled there numerous times, visiting Kailua-Kona on the west side, Waimea up north and Hilo on the east side. But I’ve never ventured far beyond those towns. In the last few months, though, I’ve been reminded of the importance of seeking new experiences. So, on my most recent trip to Hawai‘i Island, my friend Catherine Toth Fox and I spent two days exploring the Hāmākua Coast.
Stretching 50 miles from Hilo to Waipi‘o Valley on the northeastern side of the island, this lush, serene region receives plenty of rain, hence the tropical rainforests, verdant valleys and epic waterfalls. Dotting the area are charming towns home to hole-in-the-wall shops, famous bakeries, local farms and more. While it’s common to make the trek from Hilo to Waipi‘o Valley via the Hawai‘i Belt Road in one day, Cat and I took two to survey the area, with plenty of pit stops in between. The extra time not only added to my curiosity, but it prompted me to savor the journey and to deeply appreciate the people on the ride, too.
These are just a few spots worth visiting along the Hāmākua Coast.
Hāmākua Hotel
Nestled on 25 tranquil acres, the Hāmākua Hotel is an idyllic home base for travelers on the east side of Hawai‘i Island. There are eight elegant rooms to choose from, all with private lānai for guests to soak in the panoramic views of the Pacific. Guests can enjoy an infinity pool overlooking the ocean along with a spa equipped with a sauna and cold plunge—I only lasted 10 seconds in the frigid water. Twice a week, guests are invited to enjoy cocktails at sunset followed by a six-course dinner prepared by the estate’s esteemed chef. I devoured each of the six dishes.
hamakuahotel.com.
Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden
Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino
Opened to the public in 1984, this garden—tucked in a lush valley that opens up to Onomea Bay—sits on 100 acres in Pāpa‘ikou. Visitors can meander through 20 of those acres, along beautiful paths lined with more than 2,500 tropical species.
Mauna Kea Cacao
Photos: Catherine Toth Fox
In 2011, John and Susan Basset prepared for retirement by purchasing 20 acres of agricultural land along the Hāmākua Coast. Twice a year, the couple would travel from Colorado to the Big Island to plant cacao seedlings on their property. Then, in 2015, they moved to Pepe‘eko full time to care for the cacao trees, harvest the pods, and ferment and dry the beans.
READ MORE: This Family-Run Farm is a Sweet Stop on the Hāmākua Coast
By 2018, their farm had earned the Best Cacao award at the Big Island Chocolate Festival. Today, you can tour the farm and sample some delicious chocolates, too. Susan’s untempered chocolate is a favorite!
‘Akaka Falls
Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino
This side of Hawai‘i Island is known for its waterfalls—and you can see two at ‘Akaka Falls State Park. A 0.4-mile path, whichloops through a rainforest filled with verdant flora, leads visitors to the 100-foot Kahuna Falls and 442-foot ‘Akaka Falls.
Honomū Dairy
Photo: Nani Welch Keli‘iho‘omalu
Less than 3 miles from ‘Akaka Falls State Park is Honomū Dairy—and trust me, you’ll want to make a pit stop here. The 15-acre farm produces soaps, cheeses and caramel made with milk from its herd of Nubian goats. But for visitors, the best part just might be the free “goat therapy” provided by some of the best therapists you’ll ever meet.
Mr. Ed’s Bakery
In an unassuming shop in Honomū, shelves are lined with colorful jams, jellies, chutneys and sauces. Mr. Ed’s Bakery is a great spot to pick up omiyage (gifts) and sample sweet jams like guava, liliko‘i and mango along with unique flavors like jaboticaba (a tropical fruit native to Brazil). I picked up a vibrant variety of spreads and preserves, including purple sweet potato, ‘ōhelo berry, lychee and li hing mui pineapple to share with friends.
mredsbakeryhawaii.com.
I Luv Dumplings
With its edgy interior and Japanese fusion menu, I Luv Dumplings almost seems out of place in quaint Honoka‘a, an old sugar plantation town. But it’s loved by locals and visitors alike—and I’m already planning to go back. The eatery is known for its gyoza, hirata buns and karaage chicken. The restaurant also serves saimin and ramen, an ode to the past. Back in the 1940s, the site was home to a restaurant nicknamed the “Long Soup Corner” for its popular bowls of samin.
iluvdumplings.com.
Tex Drive In
Photo: Hawaiʻi Tourism Authority (HTA)/Ben Ono
You can’t visit Honoka‘a without stopping by Tex Drive In for a box of malasadas. These deep-fried pastries are dusted with a healthy coat of sugar and can be ordered plain or come filled with flavors like haupia, mango, pineapple or Bavarian cream. And unlike at other sweet shops, these malasadas are square!
Waipi‘o Valley Lookout
Photo: Aaron K. Yoshino
Cat and I ended our Hāmākua Coast journey at the Waipi‘o Valley Lookout. Here, we took in the breathtaking views of what’s known as “The Valley of the Kings,” home to King Kamehameha when he was a child. As I took in the views of the black sand beach and emerald valley, I was in awe.
This story was originally published in our FALL/WINTER 2025 issue, which you can buy here. Better yet, subscribe and get HAWAIʻI Magazine delivered to right to your mailbox.
Grace Maeda is the editor of HAWAIʻI Magazine.
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